Most homes that burn in a wildfire are ignited by wind-blown embers, not the wall of flame, and embers can travel more than a mile ahead of a fire. Hardening the house means denying those embers a place to land: dead leaves in the gutters, needles on the roof, dry brush against the walls. This work reduces risk, it doesn't eliminate it. In a major fire, follow evacuation orders even if you've done everything right.
Quick wildfire prep checklist
- Clear dead leaves and needles from the gutters.
- Clear the roof and check for gaps where embers can lodge.
- Clear dead vegetation within five feet of the house.
- Seal or screen gaps under eaves and vents.
- Clear flammables from under the deck.
- Check fencing that touches the house.
Clear dead leaves from the gutters
Dry leaves and needles in the gutters are tinder right at the roofline. Clear them out so a landing ember has nothing to catch, and keep them clear through fire season, not just once.
Clear the roof and check for gaps
The roof is the biggest target for embers. Sweep off needles and leaves, especially in valleys and behind chimneys, and look for gaps at the edges and around vents where embers can slip under. Have a roofer handle repairs rather than walking the roof yourself.
Clear dead vegetation near the house
Fire agencies call the first five feet around the house the most important defensible zone. Keep it free of dead plants, bark mulch, firewood, and anything that burns; gravel or bare soil here gives embers nowhere to start. Extend the cleanup outward as far as you can.
Seal gaps under eaves and vents
Embers get sucked into attic and crawlspace vents and into gaps under eaves, then ignite the house from inside. Cover vents with noncombustible metal mesh and seal gaps under eaves. 1/8-inch mesh is the common minimum (and the standard in California's WUI building code, Chapter 7A); 1/16-inch is the current best practice because finer mesh stops smaller embers. NFPA's Firewise program has the screening specs.
Clear flammables from under the deck
The space under a wood deck collects leaves and stored items that catch embers and then light the deck. Clear it out and keep it clear, and store firewood and propane well away from the house.
Check fencing that touches the house
A wood fence connected to the house acts like a fuse, carrying fire right to the wall. Where a combustible fence meets the house, a noncombustible section or gate at the connection breaks that path.
Beyond maintenance: building materials
If you're remodeling or replacing systems in a high-risk area, the building itself raises the bar more than anything on the checklist above. Class A roofing (asphalt shingle, metal, tile), dual-pane tempered windows, ignition-resistant siding, boxed-in eaves, and ember-resistant decking and vents are the levers. These are renovation-level investments, not maintenance, but they shift the math the most.
Good maintenance rhythm
The checklist gets you through the hardening pass once. Defensible space only works when it stays clear, so keep it intact through every fire season by sticking with a regular maintenance schedule.
- Before fire season: clear the roof and gutters and screen all vents with 1/8-inch metal mesh.
- Through fire season: keep the first five feet around the house clear of anything that burns.
- Ongoing: clear leaves and needles from the roof and gutters as they fall.
- Seasonally: clear flammables from under the deck and move firewood away from the house.
- Yearly: check fencing that connects to the house.
- When a fire is near: bring in cushions, mats, and other loose flammables.